Freeman Safaris
‘Yesterday’s Safaris Today’
A Day in Nakuru Park
Marc's diary - 02 Feb 1999
It was lovely walking out of the tent this morning – dark, no sun but still light enough to see the silver on the lake and the flamingos which appear to be at our end of the lake. I lay in bed last night listening to flights of flamingos flying over clattering and in formation. After dinner last night we were able to watch the arrowhead formations fly overhead, we think to the top end of the Lake.
Out straight after breakfast around the lake to the other end. Brian uses a different and shorter route since my last visit, on the road to Nakuru, what a state it is in, large pot holes in the tarmac. Down through Nakuru town as we have to go through the main gate, the only gate you can pay at as they use swipe cards. It takes a little time to complete, hatches off and in we go and it is only 0715.
The acacia trees are really dense. Brian says the park has the best examples of acacia forests in Kenya as the baboon is their only real natural enemy and they spend more time scrounging! With the early sun the trees and colour is so lovely. We spot a crested eagle and shortly we see a lioness, which quickly disappears into the bush.
As we come to edge of the trees we see a small herd of male impala, some with large horns, and Brian says they are the leopard’s best meal. The horns help to wedge the carcase in the trees. Still, they are too calm for any cat close by. Under other trees are common waterbuck as well as a few Tommies grazing in the clearings; we scan the large open areas for rhino, large grey shapes.
Driving on with the lake to our right we stop for a couple of bee-eaters and a lilac-breasted roller and there in a small clearing, still well away from our track, Sylvia spots our fist 3 white rhinos; mum, toto and dad, grazing slowly and moving in our direction. It is decided to move on as it would take them some time to get closer if they do at all. If need be we can always return, Brian is confident we will see more.
There are 4 old buffalo bulls, all very well caked with grey mud. They and the yellow ox peckers make good pictures with the low sun on them. It is so difficult filming black faces but I think I have managed to get the classic shot, grass in the mouth. Moving on we photo a lovely impala and waterbuck male, nice and close and the light is so good. Off we go as a male rhino is close to the track further on. Once again the sun is on our side and we get some really good shots with the rhino passing close by. We are joined by some noisy Japanese and I can see Brian getting cross. Luckily we had finished videoing.
Up we go to baboon lookout for tea and sandwiches. The time is 1000 and once again we are all hungry and need creaming as it is getting hot and the ladies want a loo stop. What a great view of the park and lake! Brian points out the various landmarks and his intended route for the day but as we all know that can change. Once sorted, off we go down to the lake right up to the water’s edge where get out and take loads of pictures of the pink flamingo carpet, the birds all feeding on the blue algae. A couple of sticks fly by but too quick, hope to get those tomorrow at camp.
Once again we are back in the trees searching for colobus monkey or leopard which could be on the ground. Brian is driving very slowly and after a long sweep we come on to a large glade. We stop and scan and yes, a male rhino! We move forward and get some good action shots, the rhino scenting and walking beside us. It moves into the tree line out of sight so we move on, determined to find our first leopard. Brian does not give up as we sweep through again, taking a different route, and after an hour we change tactics going out into the open and once again finding a family of 3 rhino. Brian takes off as they are so close although the grass is in the way for a feeding shot. Patience pays off as we get really great shots and just watch and enjoy them, God, are we so lucky to be here!
We continue round the lake and spot another group, this time 5 white rhino with a very small toto, Brian reckons no more than a month old. Although we wait they have no intention of coming toward us and we have to be content with a couple of long shots. But seeing them is just the tops.
As we move on Brian shows us a number of trees he has seen leopard in. Although we are all looking hard, and after a number of false alarms, we spot nothing except a really lovely reed buck. Even the reticulated giraffe appear to be on holiday. Still, we have time.
Time for lunch and to get out of Bluebell. We go into the lodge and Brian takes us to the best spot overlooking the park where he only allows toasted sandwiches and chips as he only wants to be here for 30 minutes. A lovely stop, not where I would like to stay as it is too divorced from nature.
Out we go again, passing the baboons that have mastered getting past the electric fence down to a little water hole by the lake, where 2 rhinos are enjoying a lie in the mud. None of us want to leave as we have them to ourselves. We move on, spending the last hour looking for leopard and Brian points out previous sightings, which unfortunately don't help us. As Brian says, there is always the next day.
We leave the park via the lion gate and head back to camp arriving just after last light. The fire and lamps outside each tent are a welcome site. Tea, and then off to the shower and a sort out. Another superb dinner, this time tilapia fish cooked in an Amani special sauce. As usual had to have seconds, followed by bread and butter pudding. He always amazes me just how he can cook such meals in the bush. Nothing is ever from a packet and despite the timing, always perfect.
Time to put the light out as it is 2230, mind you the flamingos are chattering
© Freemansafaris.com 2012
"Thousands upon thousands of beautiful flamingos and pelicans as far as the eye can
see. Difficult to know where next to point one's camera. And as for Rhinos, this
was HQ ! Black & White in all directions - we've never seen so many. Another bonus
here - thanks to Brian's perseverance and positioning we witnessed up close the once
in a lifetime spectacle of two Black Rhino clashing violently. We even managed to
end the day with the classic 'leopard up a tree' sighting - superb!"
Tracy and John